Sunday, November 8, 2015

After 46 Years...a Trip Back in Time, Part 4

by Glenn N. Holliman

This is the 4th in a series of a Old Soldier returning to Vietnam....

Hanoi, the capital of North Vietnam....
March 7, 2015

The flight from Tokyo to Ha Noi was six hours, and the time changed, advancing two hours.  Hanoi airport 20 or so miles north of the city. Modern, clean, well organized, no problem clearing passport control and then to baggage.  No police visible in the airport, no guns, no swagger.  

Driver met us, and we swept down a six lane highway with traffic going every-which way.  For a socialist country, their traffic habits are ungovernable! Swirling, crowding, dodging each other mainly scooters carrying one, two, three, even four persons.  No one obeying any rules except red lights.  New York City is tame compared to this derby.



Rice and vegetable fields mingle with industry and homes.  It is March 7, maybe 55f, drizzly and overcast.  We approach the city and three to four floor houses appear, narrow, sometimes just gray cinder block, many time painted with open verandas.  There is evidence of French influence in the architecture.

To the old city (population of Hanoi is over 6 million), and we are soon in a maze of narrow streets, teeming with little open air shops, motorcycles parked on sidewalks, people selling all sorts of things in open shops, cooking on the street, preparing foods, live frogs, birds, fish, vegetables and noodles.  Very entrepreneur.  Our driver pulls up on what I thought was a slum street and three bell men run up to our car, open the doors and welcome us to the Tirant Hotel.  Modern, clean, plumbing western.  $80 a night for a deluxe room.  T.V., computer, wi fi, etc. 

  Grace, cousin Karen and Glenn Holliman
Later dinner on the 11th floor overlooking the city, looking well-worn and yet high rise banks popping up among the mainly four story apartments and businesses, an amazing cacophony of shapes, sizes and movement. 



The ultramodern mixed with the old....that is Ha Noi in 2015.

Dinner was Asian by choice – excellent calamari, a red wine Da Lat from Viet Nam, tasting like a shiraz, and my fatigue slipped away.  Beef and pork with rice. 


 Da Lat Viet Nam wine shared with the chicken in Hanoi.

Conversation with the receptionist in the tastefully decorated bar - perhaps all of 25, thin, attractive, excellent English.  Asked where we were from.  Told her I stationed near Ho Chi Mien City (Saigon) in 1969 and was there animosity due to the American War as they call it?  She smiled sweetly, no, that was the past.  And the war was because of leaders, not the young soldiers. 

We walked the streets for an hour, overwhelmed and intrigued by the street life, trying to absorb the sights and sounds of ‘ancient’ Asia. 

To a lake, somewhat like the one in Central Park, NY….a pagoda, a temple if you will, Buddhist, swarming with tourists, almost all Asian.  Took many photos.
Somewhat like visiting St. Patrick’s in NYC only much smaller.  

Below, the turtle 'arising' from the lake with a sword in its mouth somehow saving the city from Chinese domination in centuries past.  China, the elephant to the north, has often and for long times dominated Vietnam.  Wish our country's leaders in the 1960s had paused a bit to reflect on that important bit of Asian history.
To bed by 9 pm, trying to let nature reset our body clocks.  So far, so good….thanks in large part to our tour guides Jim and Karen Holliman who took many of the great photographs you are seeing.


 

Next post of my trip back in time, more on Hanoi, the enemy capital of the United States in the 1960s.

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