After 46 Years...a Trip Back in Time, Part 6

by Glenn N. Holliman

This post is a continuation of my memoir of 1969 Vietnam and my return in 2015, an old veteran observing, remembering.... 

Ha Noi to Ha Long....

We board a shuttle bus with physicians and nurses and slowly move through Hanoi, heading 80 or so miles the Red River into the country side moving east and north to the coast. One village or town after another as we head to our medical conference site. Third world roads, incredible congestion and insane drivers.  Fortunately only saw one accident.  Four hours through winter gloom, rice fields and some industrialization.  

The populous seems happy, energetic and well dressed.  A bit like Central America – warm climate so one’s shop is in the front and home in the back or above if more than one floor. 

Scenes left and right 1969, South Vietnam. 

Scenes below 2015, still paddies in Vietnam, the major export, but shops like the one above have been replaced by much improved construction.
                                                                                                          

                                   

Much was as 46 years ago, and yet change has come in a major way.  The communist victory in 1975 resulted in a decade of socialist-directed state rule, suppressing but not destroying the entrepreneur spirit of the people.  In 1986, economic policy changed and the business spirit of a people arose.  Per capita income is still low, not more than $2,500 American dollars but there is a steady increase in national income.  So much to do; is this is China in 1979?

Did stop once for rest room and tourist break.  A massive gift shop complex, very modern, selling Vietnamese ‘crafts’.  Fifty young people, embroidering, bend over their needles and fabric, souvenirs, lacquer, paintings, pearls, drinks, overwhelming stuff to buy.  But clean and interesting.  Back in the bus and through the rain to Ha Long.

Ha Long – Here we went through a toll booth to get to an island along the coast.  Fog and mist, but arrived at Saigon Hotel (photos below).  Modern, the whole area is modern and new, as this part of Vietnam has invested to attract conventions, such as ours, and well healed tourists.

Marriott style rooms – quiet nice, wi fi of course in 2015, and friendly Vietnamese and others from America and Australia.  Staff lovely, cheerful and willing to do anything to make us happy.  Happiness is a hot shower and a rest before the opening banquet.

Banquet food served on a  lazy Susan, ten courses!  Fish, squid, prawns, pork, rice, soups (two kinds), salad, wine, beer, bottled water and some dessert that tasted a bit like coffee beans.  

Below, dinner in Ha Long, left to right - Grace, my daughter and cousins Karen and Jim Holliman.

  Well, I must show bits of the feast at the banquet!

My daughter, Grace, in Ha Long, Vietnam

A Vietnamese folk band played for us, and strangely a television flat screen in the corner remained on, featuring a Milan fashion show. The conference leaders from Vietnam, a president of the Hanoi medical college, and another person, a professional lady, greeted us at the end of the banquet and then broke into song! 

It was delightfully bizarre – a 50-something college president sang three tunes, walking from table to table with a portable mike as if he was Frank Sinatra.  Then his female colleague greeted us and sang several songs celebrating International Women’s Day.  Amazing cultural trait!  I loved it.

Collapsed in bed, still suffering jet lag, but recovering…..Grace, my daughter, a good trooper.

Cousin Dr. Jim Holliman and I wear a coat and tie (me in white), and am by far the oldest person here.  The young nurses and physicians from V.N. think I am a senior doctor and treat me with deference.  I try to discourage them, well, not very much.

More observations of both new and ancient Vietnam next post!